Sorry about this last picture, it should be flipped. These are some of the basic parts of a knife.
1. Butt or Pommel: Can be steel or brass, used to balance the knife and sometimes for striking.
2. Rivet or Mosaic Pin: Used to attach or secure handle to the knife.
3. Bolster: a decorative piece between the blade and handle and sometimes doubles as a guard.
4. Ricasso: Portion of un-sharpened area between the blade and handle.
5. Choil: A recessed space between the edge and bolster to allow sharpening of the entire edge, can also be used to choke up on the knife.
6. Spine: The Un-sharpened top of the blade.
7. Grind: The Secondary Edge Where the steel has been removed to form the edge.
8. Edge: The Primary Edge Where all the magic happens…. well on a well sharpened knife that is 😉
9. Point: Shouldn’t have to explain this one, you will get the point
10. Full Tang: Where the Blade and handle are made from one piece of steel extending the full length of the knife. Makes for the strongest knife possible.
11. Liner: Using liner can Help strengthen the bond between the handle and the knife, it also looks good! 😉
Good to know info. If You have any questions please feel free to send me an e-mail at email@example.com Please Like our facebook page to keep up to date with the latest info.
1. Sabre Grind: aka “Scandinavian Grind” this is a typical grind for a tactical, or military knife.
2. Hollow Grind: this is a typical grind for straight razors and now more common on massed produced knives. great for a sharp edge but causes the edge to be weak.
3. Chisel Grind: Mostly found on Japanese Culinary knives. Makes for a really sharp edge.
4. Flat Grind: Edge ground all the way to the spine, very sharp edge, but not real durable.
5. Convex Grind: Opposite of a hollow grind, commonly found on axes and such for heavy cutting.
6. Compound Bevel or Double Bevel: This is a great way to have a knife with a sharp edge that has more resilience than a flat grind. The red section is considered the secondary edge. and the black bevel would be considered the primary edge, ( the primary edge does the cutting)
Having the right grind on your knife is important. There are many combinations or variations of grinds but these are the basic grinds. If your knife has the right grind for what it is used for, and it is a good quality knife. You shouldn’t have to spend too much time maintaining your knife, a quick touch up and it should be ready to go. I only spend a few minutes to bring my knife back to shaving sharp and that is only after it has been used heavily. I hope You learned something new, if you have any questions about Knives I would be glad to answer them. Just e-mail me with your questions at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Only thing left is to sharpen!!!
I had to recrute some help, I am running behind!
Judah hasn’t got enough of his daddy, he came crawling when I walked in the door and wouldn’t let me leave so I took him to work with me. One thing good about working from home.
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So My son got a hold of one of our old neck knife cases and decided to put it to good use! 🙂
I believe kids need to start out learning how to be responsible with knives at an early age. We teach our children safe cutting practices and watch them close. But you have to know they are going to cut them selves this can be one of the best teachers (don’t worry most of their cuts didn’t make it past the bone 😉 they will heal), One of the first knives Malachi had was one I carved him out of wood, he was so proud of that knife.
He Has a fast draw so you had better watch out! And the Edge… well it is scary dull!
After I get caught up on these orders I will do a post on basic knife handling.
Hardened Steel Core To see if the knife has been fully hardened I test it with a file. When the Knife is fully hardened a file should not bit into the steel because the steel core is harder than the file itself. Now that is Hard!!! Here is a video of me trying to drill through a hardened blade. I had got in a hurry and forgot to drill the knife before I heat treated it so I ran into problems trying to drill it. I can take the temper out of the handle by putting the blade in water and heating the handle red hot while the blade is in the water. If you try to do this without the blade in water you will remove the temper out of the blade itself.